Old House Renovation – How do you renovate a House??? Part 1 | P1V4 | ShortWorx
I’m a first-time home buyer with no experience of renovations and I have no idea what I’m doing…how hard can it be? Watch my vlog of the House rebuilding stage part 1…
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Watch the Demolition stage here: https://youtu.be/IvLYniYiYvc
The staircase had been left unsupported by previous alteration so to prepare for the new structure I first strengthened the floor directly below the landing newel with bracing. I could then add a post between the floor and the newel. To secure the top plate underneath the stair stringer I attached blocks which provided a firm base and then fixed a bottom plate the floor below. Next I added studding spaced 400mm apart using the a Laser Distance Measurer to determine the stud lengths. Placing bracing between the studs stiffened the structure up and the laser level helped me get them all inline. The opening below the stairs was slightly wider than any standard door sizes so I added studding either side of the opening to fill in the gaps and to provide a good anchor for the door frame leaving room for a 610mm door.
To access the loft space there was a very small opening in one of the bedrooms which needed moving into the hall way. I marked the new location on the ceiling and cut away the plasterboard/drywall using a multi cutter. With clear access into the loft space I could use my circular saw to cut through the ceiling joists which I’d temporarily braced so they wouldn’t drop after I’d cut through. The circular saw blade didn’t reach all the way through so I finished the cut with a reciprocating saw. Next I added trimmer joists around the perimeter of the opening which I can secure the new access hatch to. I covered the opening with plasterboard/drywall and cut the opening out with my router and a flush trim bit.
All ceilings were over boarded with plasterboard/dry wall and secured with 60mm screws. For walls which needed new plaster I attached 25mm x 50mm battens with screws and wall plugs/anchors and levelled using shims. I then fixed the boards to the battens with 32mm screws at 200mm centres.
As the walls varied in thickness I had to create custom door frames. I used 25mm hardwood plywood. The 25mm sheets were very heavy and cumbersome so I first ripped them to rough width on the floor using a straight edge and circular saw. A cordless saw didn’t last very long so I quickly switched to corded saw with dust extraction. With the sheets cut to a more manageable size I ripped them to final width on the table saw. The top of the door frames are secured to the sides with 60mm screws and the frames attached to the walls with 100mm screws and wall plugs/anchors.
Thanks for watching! Please Like and Subscribe. Add a comment below if you think I could’ve done something differently or if you have any questions!
Check out the Blog for more info and sneak peaks:
Tools (Affiliate Links) (https://goo.gl/g8W7Ai)
(00:15) Makita MLS100 240V 255mm Mitre Saw (Dewalt DE7023 Universal Mitre Saw Stand)
(00:21) DeWalt DC825 18v Impact Driver
(00:51) Bosch GDR 10.8-LI 10.8v Impact Driver
(01:09) DeWalt DW03050 Laser Distance Measurer
(01:43) DeWalt D25323K-GB 3.4kg 240V SDS Plus Hammer Drill
(01:51) Bosch GLL 3-80P Laser Level
(02:31) Bosch GOP300SCE 240V Multicutter
(02:49) DeWalt DC390 18v Circular Saw
(03:01) DeWalt DWE357K 240V Compact Reciprocating Saw
(03:49) DeWalt D26204K 240v Plunge and Fixed Base 2 in 1 1/4" Router
(04:11) DeWalt D23550 240V 165mm Circular Saw
(04:13) Makita VC2010L Wet and Dry L Class 20L Dust Extractor
(04:23) DeWalt DW745 240V 250mm Table Saw
(04:23) Record Power DX1000 240v Dust Extractor
(06:24) DeWalt DC727 18v Combi Drill
(07:42) Bosch GHO 16-82 D 240V 1.6mm Planer
Filming Equipment
Samsung Galaxy Note 4
Samsung Galaxy S3
Rode SmartLav+ (http://amzn.to/2w8r3OP)
Blue Yeti (http://amzn.to/2vqkxVT)
MAGIX Vegas Movie Platinum 13
Note: I’m not a professional contractor, this is not a how to video and all the tools used are my own.
Subscribe to catch the next video: https://goo.gl/gwp6Zu
Watch the Demolition stage here: https://youtu.be/IvLYniYiYvc
The staircase had been left unsupported by previous alteration so to prepare for the new structure I first strengthened the floor directly below the landing newel with bracing. I could then add a post between the floor and the newel. To secure the top plate underneath the stair stringer I attached blocks which provided a firm base and then fixed a bottom plate the floor below. Next I added studding spaced 400mm apart using the a Laser Distance Measurer to determine the stud lengths. Placing bracing between the studs stiffened the structure up and the laser level helped me get them all inline. The opening below the stairs was slightly wider than any standard door sizes so I added studding either side of the opening to fill in the gaps and to provide a good anchor for the door frame leaving room for a 610mm door.
To access the loft space there was a very small opening in one of the bedrooms which needed moving into the hall way. I marked the new location on the ceiling and cut away the plasterboard/drywall using a multi cutter. With clear access into the loft space I could use my circular saw to cut through the ceiling joists which I’d temporarily braced so they wouldn’t drop after I’d cut through. The circular saw blade didn’t reach all the way through so I finished the cut with a reciprocating saw. Next I added trimmer joists around the perimeter of the opening which I can secure the new access hatch to. I covered the opening with plasterboard/drywall and cut the opening out with my router and a flush trim bit.
All ceilings were over boarded with plasterboard/dry wall and secured with 60mm screws. For walls which needed new plaster I attached 25mm x 50mm battens with screws and wall plugs/anchors and levelled using shims. I then fixed the boards to the battens with 32mm screws at 200mm centres.
As the walls varied in thickness I had to create custom door frames. I used 25mm hardwood plywood. The 25mm sheets were very heavy and cumbersome so I first ripped them to rough width on the floor using a straight edge and circular saw. A cordless saw didn’t last very long so I quickly switched to corded saw with dust extraction. With the sheets cut to a more manageable size I ripped them to final width on the table saw. The top of the door frames are secured to the sides with 60mm screws and the frames attached to the walls with 100mm screws and wall plugs/anchors.
Thanks for watching! Please Like and Subscribe. Add a comment below if you think I could’ve done something differently or if you have any questions!
Check out the Blog for more info and sneak peaks:
Tools (Affiliate Links) (https://goo.gl/g8W7Ai)
(00:15) Makita MLS100 240V 255mm Mitre Saw (Dewalt DE7023 Universal Mitre Saw Stand)
(00:21) DeWalt DC825 18v Impact Driver
(00:51) Bosch GDR 10.8-LI 10.8v Impact Driver
(01:09) DeWalt DW03050 Laser Distance Measurer
(01:43) DeWalt D25323K-GB 3.4kg 240V SDS Plus Hammer Drill
(01:51) Bosch GLL 3-80P Laser Level
(02:31) Bosch GOP300SCE 240V Multicutter
(02:49) DeWalt DC390 18v Circular Saw
(03:01) DeWalt DWE357K 240V Compact Reciprocating Saw
(03:49) DeWalt D26204K 240v Plunge and Fixed Base 2 in 1 1/4" Router
(04:11) DeWalt D23550 240V 165mm Circular Saw
(04:13) Makita VC2010L Wet and Dry L Class 20L Dust Extractor
(04:23) DeWalt DW745 240V 250mm Table Saw
(04:23) Record Power DX1000 240v Dust Extractor
(06:24) DeWalt DC727 18v Combi Drill
(07:42) Bosch GHO 16-82 D 240V 1.6mm Planer
Filming Equipment
Samsung Galaxy Note 4
Samsung Galaxy S3
Rode SmartLav+ (http://amzn.to/2w8r3OP)
Blue Yeti (http://amzn.to/2vqkxVT)
MAGIX Vegas Movie Platinum 13
Note: I’m not a professional contractor, this is not a how to video and all the tools used are my own.
- Category
- House Renovation
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